Primary Chaincase now fitted and new drive chain mounted behind (Regina Extra).
Hylomar Blue used on the gasket and very easy to apply to both faces of the gasket.
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Also managed to spray the contract number on the tank using the axholme stencils, I thought I had a reaction to the powder coating, but have managed to clean the area the stencil was applied with some citrus spary (Elbow Grease) and has removed the witness marks of the stencil nicely.
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Tyres and wheel to get finished next.
Julian 
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Looking good Julian I like shiny M20s.I have mine painted in gloss 2 pack paint mixed to suit old paint found inside toolbox (bronze green).Also the ladies seem to like the look of my bike,had several ladies comment on colour and say nice looking bike,never thought a M20 would be a fanny magnet
Dave
Whenever I park it up, my Matchless just seems to attract crowds of misty eyed old men! 
Hi Dave and Lincoln,
Mine is powder coated in Gloss Bronze Green, which is what matched the inner primary chaincase and handlebar ends on the bike when I stripped it down.
I'm a bit mythed if mine should of been the matt Olive Drab as the BSAOC stated in their paperwork, as allot of the info they provided was fiction anyway, I believe the Bronze Green is correct, the only bit which I think is incorrect, but I'm happy to stick with it, is the Gloss Black Pedals and foot rests linked to the gearbox and engine, they do blend in with the engine perfectly andthe rear footrests are green as per the rest of the bike.
Getting a bit attached to the bike now, after striping it all apart and rebuilding and replacing nearly every nut and bolt, happily plodding along with the build and trying my best to finish each stage before moving on to the next, It's getting to some fiddly bits now but loving the challenge.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
I was once told by an old bloke that if you are restoring something you should put the same effort into every last piece. Treat the tiniest, most hidden part with the same attention to detail that you would with the largest most obvious component and the finished result can't fail to be perfect. Looking at your photos, you certainly seem to be following the same philosophy. I can't wait to see the finished result.
That's taking shape nicely now Julian, looking really good
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Mine is powder coated in Gloss Bronze Green, which is what matched the inner primary chaincase and handlebar ends on the bike when I stripped it down.
I'm a bit mythed if mine should of been the matt Olive Drab as the BSAOC stated in their paperwork, as allot of the info they provided was fiction anyway, I believe the Bronze Green is correct, the only bit which I think is incorrect, but I'm happy to stick with it, is the Gloss Black Pedals and foot rests linked to the gearbox and engine, they do blend in with the engine perfectly andthe rear footrests are green as per the rest of the bike.
Getting a bit attached to the bike now, after striping it all apart and rebuilding and replacing nearly every nut and bolt, happily plodding along with the build and trying my best to finish each stage before moving on to the next, It's getting to some fiddly bits now but loving the challenge.
Julian
I can remember some of the M20's sold off by the Aust army at Holdsworthy in the 70's and each & every one of them has been brush painted in the currrent Australian army drab over the top of the original enamel.
Bars levers and other small parts had been silver frosted in that dull non reflective finish.
In 82 I bougght my first B40 9 at the same place ) and it was over painted in exactly the same colour scheme except that it looks like they used a bigger broom to do the job with.
the only real difference was the colour of the "Cert N E R" & Prov NER " stencilled on the tanks.
The M20 was done in thin white while the B 40 was thick yellow/
Cert ner = certified non economic repair
Prov ner = provisional non economic repair
email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au
Ax Holme designs Contact Info.
Telephone Number:- 01427 752622
Email Address:- info@axholmesigns.co.uk
I have to say that they do require a bit of preping to get rid of the air bubbles and paint slowly and patiently, allowing the layers to build up. Else (as I found out) if you apply to much paint then the stencil will lift off in places.
Thanks for all your comments guys, it's taking a bit longer than I expected but I'm in no rush and just happy to get it in a state far better than what I began with. This forum has been a life saver for me and hope you all share in the success when finished, as you have all been amazingly helpful with all your suggestions and remarks.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Great night tonight after machining my 3/16" key for the clutch sleeve to mount on the gearbox, I've lost 2 of these keys and despite searching the garage and scouring the floor I can't find them for love or money. Decided to machine my own key to appreciate it a little more and I'm delighted with the result as my key fits a lot more precisely than the purchased keys I had prior.
Clutch lever mounted with a new 1/4" x 1.1/4" long dowel and the movement is now a joy, the gearbox and clutch prior were all seized completely but now the kickstart and gear change movements in the gearbox are now sweet as a nut and the clutch movement is a positive with what feels like a good resistance without being excessive.
The cover was a good fit and with the cork washer (that was never present when I had the bike) it again looks and feels like a nice and positive seal.
The position of the brake pedal has been a bit awkward to set as I think the stop bracket is a little bent, but have managed to get the brake pedal fairly level with the footrest.
I also think that the couple of nights I spent machining the brass handle bar ends have paid off as they blend in beautifully.
You can see the black pedals in these photos a little clearer now and I don't know if they should of been black, but they were on the original build when I stripped it and I have begun to like the effect which blends in well with the engine.
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Been a little slow going lately due to work, but the stainless exhaust and tyres are due on Tuesday so very excited to get things underway once more.
A quick question though, what transfers are correct for a 1944 BSA M20 as I've only seen a few with the oval BSA logos on the tank and very few with the pile arm transfer and minimum oil level transfer, is there a reason for this?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Julian if you view the 'VMCC transfer' site. The tank transfers are SKU 4076. Or 'Classic Transfers' number is 6076. Any other transfers are really artistic licence. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Thanks Ron,
Another query I've just seen is on my rear brake drum plate, there's a slot and I have no idea what gets bolted through this slot above the torque arm (right hand plate on photo below).
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian...Nothing goes through there...The recess provides some clearance for the stand bolt locknut...The 'through' slot is superfluous as far as I can tell....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Thanks Ian,
I can understand the recess in the riveted plate but just not the thru slot.
I've looked through all my original build photos and see that this was left blank then and wasn't certain if something was missing, but obviously not.
Great to have your clarification as always.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian..Personally, I connect all the earths to one point...I use the main frame bolt under the saddle that joins the two halves of the frame together. I'm not actually sure what they used originally as I never follow exactly the original layout...I run an extra earth from the horn button which doesn't earth well with painted handlebars, one from the rear light and one from the headlamp to the main earthing point. Also, you have to have a dipswitch and rear brake light switch, niether of which were originally fitted...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi Julian..I usually cut a connector by hand from stainless sheet which fits the bolt and has 'tails' that can be crimped over to hold the wires..There's probably a more sensible ready made solution though... ..I don't like to use copper or brass connectors as in that sort of size either may fail with vibration....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Thanks John for your recommendation, just put my voltmeter across the headlight and saddle bolt and thankfully as I have tapped all the holes out on all frame lugs after powder coating, thankfully I have a good earth througout, I thought the paint was going to prevent the connectivity but so far so good.
Just want to get the loom mounted correctly when I get my head around the right position.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com