I'm so grateful to this site and the image on Draganfly for the re-assembly of my clutch, when I took it apart I couldn't understand the purpose of the roller bearings as the centre and the chainwheel were seized together. Whilst cleaning all the bearing surfaces and after seeing the images of the single clutch assembly I was thankfully able to get the 2 apart, using scotchbrite and re-greasing all the roller bearings the movement has been re-instated and all of a sudden I have a clutch that works and a movement/fit that is very neat.
I studied Hans Mullers Clutch tool page, but as I never had a U tool at hand I decided to have a go at the simple method. Turning a brass tool with the location stub for the boss with a nice precise clearance fit for the nut to locate onto and sit square to the tool. When I compressed all together on the drill it assembled beautifully with no problems at all, the nut tightened with ease.

My bench is now empty of all sub assemblies that need restoring and although there is still a bit of away to go I can start to see a little light at the end of the tunnel.
I need to soak my new cork washer in oil prior to fitting to the shaft but hopefully I can start getting the Primary drive cases together.
In the mean time my daughter has reminded me that her scooter (as seen in the background)still goes faster than my bike????

One quick question on the clutch assembly, how tight do you go with the C-spanner on the single centre spring, currently I have the nut fully engaged with the clutch sleeve and seems to have good resistance, don't want to overtighten but also don't wish to have a slipping clutch.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian...Fit the cork into the back of the clutch sleeve before fitting the sleeve to the shaft. The sleeve will then 'strengthen' the cork. If you try to fit the cork to the shaft first before the sleeve you will probably split it...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ian, I had a feeling that may happen as it appears to have a bit of a way to go to fit, is it best to leave it 24 hours in oil prior to fitting in the sleeve?

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Split two of those, where were you when I needed you.....

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

good idea to place cork seal in rear of clutch prior to placing on shaft better still to soak cork seal in boiling water first....you will then have
a very pliable seal which wont give any problems during assembly

See it's great to ask these questions sometimes, Thanks, love the boiling water idea.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

hi Julian,great looking bike,just saw your breather pipe pointing towards the floor.I was under the impression that it vented near the gearbox sprocket,thus
oiling the chain.Maybe someone can confirm this,or will it cause splashing all over the place if directed there.keep up the good work,
cheers rick

email (option): richardholt@rocketmail.com

Thanks Rick,
The breather pipe fitted is exactly as it came off originally, but that doesn't necessarily make it right, I have new 1/4" copper hose if I have to make new.
The overflow pipe from the oil tank is directed straight onto the chain, so maybe both go to the sprocket?
If anyone has any photos of the correct layout, I would be very grateful.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

This a common assumption with the breather pipe on the Matchless engine. People often assume the pipe goes back to the gearbox sprocket, when it actually just dumps any oil straight onto the floor! Perhaps BSA had a bit more forethought and used the breather for a good reason? I'd be very interested to know. I'm not a BSA expert, but your pictures certainly seem to make sense and look right to me?

BSA practice was the same as Matchless...both the crankcase breather pipe and oil tank vent pipe directed any oil to the floor under the bike.
The oiltank vent pipe should be clipped to the face of the gearbox plate with a 'P' clip..One thing to note when you get the bike running is that you may notice some 'spitting' from the crankcase breather when the engine is running...I have found this is not uncommon after a rebore and that it usually stops at around the 250 mile mark as the rings bed in......Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian,
You are a saviour once more, Ive got a spare P clip in my powder coated box that I couldn't fathom out where it went, now you mention this, it suits my 5/16" pipe a treat and I recall it being mounted on the gearbox as you describe, garage tonight by the looks of it
Thanks

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

A few words of wisdom on the back of my restoration.
DON'T overlook the rear pillion footrests after stripping down all and getting them powder coated/painted.
The fit is very neat and I now have to strip off the toolbox to get the right hand side re-assembled.
Got the left side fitted and thankfully due to the new field stand clip that I had to buy (to replace the old bodged clip that I originally had) the clearance is now spot on when the foot rest is raised.
It's worth spending a bit of time on these little details as it does pay off eventually.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Had my day set fitting the primary chain case cover but found that the gasket for my gearbox was incorrect from evil bay, just had to order correct outer gasket from Draganfly.



What I have managed to sort out is the spraying on my gearbox mounting bolts so at least they are all nice and green and blends in with the powder coating beautifully, also managed to mount the rear pillion footrests on both sides and remounted the toolbox.



Next weekend , hopefully all will be sorted with the primary chain case.
Also just to let you know that the clutch cork seal was mounted with ease after soaking it in oil for a couple of days then soaked it in boiling water prior to fitting, was very subtle and fitted with ease by pushing it on whilst mounted in the clutch housing.


Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian...The gasket you have is for the post war rigid and plunger gearboxes...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

The gasket is now null and void as I coated it in petroleum jelly prior to fitting and then scratched my head for a couple of minutes trying to figure out the orientation with no avail.
Thankfully a new gasket is only a couple of quid so it could of been allot worse, just a little gutted that I never managed to get it all together today, but sometimes it's good to have patience and work on other details that might of otherwise been left.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Hi Julian...I've just noticed that nobody answered one of your initial enquiries about tightening the clutch nut etc. The nut that holds the clutch sleeve to the mainshaft should be as tight as you can get it. To do this I put the bike in gear, and lean on the back brake lever...this will lock the box and stop the mainshaft turning. I then fully tighten the nut using an ordinary socket bar and socket....I'll tighten it until it overcomes the effect of a heavily applied back brake or thereabouts.
The large clutch spring nut should be tightened all the way until it comes up against the clutch sleeve, at which point it will feel quite 'solid'..I then knock it up tight with a hammer and soft drift...Don't be afraid of making sure it is very tight or it may come undone in use.
The crankshaft shock absorber nut should get the same attention...tighten all the way and then 'knock up' tight.
There is a tab washer for this one which can be a bit fiddly to keep in the correct position whilst you tighten the nut..Personally I don't use this washer and haven't for decades, but you must make your own decision there...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ian for your assistance with the Clutch, thankfully the new gasket arrived today for the gearbox and it went together like a dream, the little thread on the cotterpin for the kickstart was useful on this site.


Hopefully thats the last time the gearbox will have to come out of the bike for a little while?
Is there a stainless version of the clutch arm available or is it a case of getting the one I have polished and nickel plated?
Ian's gearbox bolt has perfect orientation once tightened.

Julizn

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

This is also a nice point to show the before and afters, as I've just been looking at the photos when the gearbox came out and surprised at the difference.

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com