When I got the bike (looooong ago...) there was an original headlamp fitted. Upon disassembling the slightly rusted thing, I found a dried-up rubber string under the instrument panel. Stupidly, I forgot to note how it passed through the six small holes, so how was it done? I got some 2 mm foam-core rubber string that will do the job, I think
Hans, I believe it should be laced across the two holes on the outside towards the front so you have a line going across behind the front screw. The ends are fed back up through the two holes closer together and then a line back down each side to the holes at the back (on the inner side of the screws) with the ends protruding 2 or 3 cm inside the headlight.
If referencing your picture, you did this:
- pull the right-hand side back out so the rubber was hanging down through the left hand rear hole.
- pull the rubber up so about 3 cm was left inside at the left-hand rear hole.
- pull the excess down through the inner front, left-hand side making sure the run is on the inside of the left-hand mounting screw.
- pull the string back up through the left-hand front outer hole where you currently have about 1cm showing until it is simply looped through the two holes as you have now.
- feed the end down through the outer right-hand.
- repeat the loop on the right-hand side and route the rubber back down through the rear right-hand hole and you are done.
At least that was how the hard-as-a-rock one was routed on a NOS headlamp I have.
Here a photo of my NOS DU42 headlamp. This DU42 has a November 1943 dated ammeter and is all original and clearly has red rubber.
I could use some this rubber Darren. Not sure what size it has as the rubber in the headlamp is hard as a rock and breaks when you handle it. It would be nice when it's red but black will also do.
The most original I ever saw was a red rubber hose approx 3 mm diameter and laced almost as shown in the picture as Mick Holmes has attached.
The description would be, first stick each end of the rubber in the most outer front holes, leaving even ends entering into the shell, but do not tighten yet.
Then stick each end from the inside out through the inner front holes.
Then tighten the the loop crossing over the inner rubber coming out of the holes. The cross over part will then also cover the rubber coming out of the shell. After that stick the rubbers in the lower rear holes.
In this way the rubber will close of the entire front and sides of the instrument panel.
Hope it helps.
Cheers,
Rob
PS, for the Norton people not looking at my forum/website.
I added downloadable copies of the M&I manuals of both 16H and B4.
Mine was red too. Unfortunately, the photo doesn't show how it was threaded through.
The DU42 is the (post-war ?) version with the domed glass. The shell difference therefore probably lies with the rim clip attachment but there may be size differences. Someone would have to try mixing and matching to find out if the parts can be made to fit.
The MU42 is the post war version...with fluted domed glass and a cast aluminium 'finger grip' clip that engages the hole in the rim but doesn't clip around the rim like a DU42 flat clip...(is the 'screw type' rim retainer shown on yours pre/early war Rik?)
The shell also has the clip slot running at 90 degrees to the rim on the MU42 as opposed to parallel to the rim edge on the DU42...Both types have the type (DU42,MU42) pressed into them adjacent to the rim clip slot which will help identification if it is legible!
Also the rim for the flat glass DU42 has an angled returned edge that comes back to rest against the glass...The MU42 rim for the domed glass comes to a sharp edge with no 'return'..
The DU42 reflector has a pressed in channel around the edge to hold the cork gasket that seals between the rim and the glass...
The MU42 reflector doesn't have this as the cork seal was replaced by a rubber extrusion which the edge of the reflector fits into...
So if you are making one from parts make sure you get the right shell, reflector and rim!..Ian
The 142s used both types of clip. I believe that Lex worked out what the suffix letter referred to. Mine is probably a DU142F...later types had an 'R' suffix but that doesn't seem to relate to the clip.