So I finished my bike with the help of everyone on the forum (Thanks a bunch) in desert theme. Took it out for my first run and after a while the kickstarter gear keeps missing the transmission when I try to start it. You can actully here it click as it skips.

I thought I had fixed it but I think the crack in the gearbox cover (under the kickstart lever) opens up enough upon starting to cause it to slip. In that area would you weld or find a new cover? I was thinking the stress might be to much for a weld.

If you think I need a new cover does anyone have a gearbox cover for sale???

From gearbox cover break

pics to the finished bike. Paint is a little light but I was thinkinga about adding a little darker brown if anyone has any suggestions?

gearbox cover break

email (option): jeff@infinitymedspa.com

Have a word with Dave Plumb, he did a great job on mine which had similar problems.
Cheers
Pete

email (option): petercomley@web.de

Hi, I can usually weld them no problem for my postal address please see the links page M.E.S.S.. I usually weld them either the same or next day and get them back to you as quickly as possible, it would help if you could degrease it and bake it in the oven to get the oil out of the pores of the metal which just lessens the prep time.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

That's an interesting looking box you have there.
Never seen one with the piled arms cast in like that before.
You should also consider a new steel bush yours looks a little worse for the wear.
While the quadrant does run on a bush in the inner cover it does not get much support from it so the bush in the outer needs to be first class.
That crack would not allow enough movement for the gears to disengage so you will need to look a bit deeper.
Did you fit a new rebound rubber under the kick start quadrant ?

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au

Firstly, the bike looks fantastic, well done. Secondly, I had a similar problem on an old pre war Burman Model H gearbox and got it welded before it got too bad. The chap who welded it did a great job and when I asked if it would be strong enough, he proudly told me that the weld would be stronger than the aluminium of the rest of the casing!!

Make sure it is not your primary drive shock absorber. My spring was loose so the ramps could slide across themselves. It felt and sounded like the kickstart was slipping when I kick started it.

email (option): Gasboy@btinternet.com

That is a very valid point Peter. Another forum member had the same symptoms, and it was just a loose cush drive nut. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Have a look at this Jeff:
http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1143502&cmd=show

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet [dot] nl

These gearbox covers with the cast in 'piled arms' have been the subject of discussion previously. I have seen about 6-8 over the years and currently have one in the 'shrapnel dept.'in the workshop. I was told by a guy who was an authority on BSAs, especially pre war, that they were a factory part. I am not so sure...All the ones I have seen have been very roughly cast compared to a 'standard' casing. Saying that though, some of the early alloy head and barrel castings were pretty rough... Does anyone have the definitive answer on this?....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Unfortunately not definitive, but my two bobs worth...

In 40 years of pre war BSA ownership, I have never seen a piled arms gearbox cover on a pre war BSA, or in a period photo, or catalogue.
All BSA aluminium gearbox covers I have seen are quality gravity die castings.
To my mind the piled arms covers are too overstated and tacky to be official BSA products.
While it remains possible for them to have been "foreign orders" from a BSA foundry, on balance, I suspect Middle Eastern origin.

Cheers
Neale

email (option): n.gentner@bigpond.com

Ian, back in 2005, Hussein in Cairo told me these were made locally. And he said that the casting were not as strong as the original BSA product. They normally split at the lower left from the kickstarter opening. Seems that bike came from Egypt. I have four of these and one has the split.

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

Thanks Neale/Henri...I suspected these were from further east than Birmingham..your replies pretty much confirm that....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I have an Egyptian bike with the piled arms transmission cover and the interior has been crudely ground by hand to fit. The kickstarter bushing is brass instead of steel. It has held up pretty well and due to the scaresness of these covers I have not been able to replace it.

I have also been trying out some low temperature aluminum brazing rod that is also stronger than the aluminum, and somewhat easier than welding aluminum.

email (option): jrosson86@att.net

How did you get on with that low temperature aluminium welding Jo?
I tried it on a Commando cylinder head, but couldnt get enough heat into it.

email (option): Gasboy@btinternet.com

The problem with the low temperature welding job is that if it fails to work, you make more work for the chap that has to aluminium weld it afterwards as it's terrible stuff to weld over, I always have to grind it away completely, it's probably better to have the job done properly in the first instance

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Peter, I use MAPP gas which gets much hotter than propane. Some care with the MAPP gas as it will eventually get aluminum hot enough to melt. Using Hobart rod, the parts have to be cleaned with alcholol (or stronger solvent) and brightened with a stainless brush.

Dave, That is a point I had not considered. Practicing on a piece that I wasn't satisfied with, I reheated the braze till it melted then wire brushed with a stainless brush and it cleaned off quite well and the part could be redone.

email (option): jrosson86@att.net

Thanks again for everyone's help. ON a different note it also looks like I have a leak on the rearside of the primary case where the drive runs through from the transmission. Is there an easy way to fix that without taking off the clutch? (it's enough oil that it is past the live with it stage :( )

email (option): jeff@infinitymedspa.com

jeff the reason the oil leaks out is there is not really and oil seal there all it is a washer the way i stop mine leaking is i put a small block of wood about 2" thick under the chain side of the rear stand this makes the bike lean over slightly not a propper fix i know but it works

email (option): roger.beck@node6.com

Joe, when you're tig welding it, you don't get the chance to heat it up and run it out from the repair, it just starts melting the metal straight away, and then includes any residue into the weld. The weld then ends up with blow holes and dosen't flow correctly, if you don't remove it all it just ends up very messy, so if I know that it's been repaired with a low temperature system I usually grind it all away.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

email (option): jeff@infinitymespa.com