This is the Bike when I got hold of it in May 2012 with a box of random bits not shown, the pictures when taken made me wonder if it was worth touching or not, but this bike has sentimental value as it was my fathers before he died and handed down accordingly.
Due to work commitments abroad and also I had problems removing the Clutch sleeve, the engine removal took a while but once the engine was out the bike was a joy to breakdown.
With engine out and all parts boxed off for the shot blasters I decided to hand polish the crankcase and gearbox with scotchbrite. Chuffed with the results but as you can see the timing cover has seen a few scratches from service in the years, tempted to see if I can polish it up on a mop, but I also appreciate that this bike has to keep some of its original history.
The Barrel needs to be rebored as it has a slight step and the piston rings have sieved in the piston.
It's also nice to show the power of a mop, you can see here the throttle mount and one half polished (right) and the unpolished half (left).
First sight of the panels that have started to be powder coated, picture shows all panels with undercoat, will be finished in the army green.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Keep up the good work Julian. I've saved some badly scratched ally cases with files,sanding discs, flap wheels, emery cloth, wet and dry paper and polishing mops. Then a nice vapour or bead blast finish for a WD model. It's especially acceptable with M20 parts as they're quite heavy duty to start with.
Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Hi Julian, Think it is not worth it to remove a lot of good material to get rid of a few deep scratches. You will probably change the shape/curvature of the surface and also weaken the part.
Personally I like the look of the timing case as it is now and would not use the polish mob on an army bike.
Good luck with your restoration, nice project , Michiel
email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com
Thanks Michael,
I'm in agreement with you as the scratches are deep and I'm concerned that if I start polishing too deep then the shape will be lost, I'm looking to remove any sharp rags and hopefully with scotchbrite I should be able to get a clean effect that will still show the main scratches but it is a historic bike after all.
Thanks again.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
That looks great! Very well organised too
You seem to be about twelve months ahead of me with my build so keep the pictures coming as I might pick up some tips
Darren
email (option): dwrudd@lineone.net
Julian I notice your timing cover has the boss on the lower side which was for the later breathing system. I'm not sure at what date they moved the breather from left to right side? Maybe Ian or someone will say. From what I can see from your pictures, yours doesn't look to be tapped for the fitting. Does this mean that yours is from a late war production when they were getting ready for the breather change? And why did they change it? Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
This timing cover has opened up a few question marks as a friend of mine through work has just invested in a very high tech bit of kit that can model the timing cover with a probe which would allow him to then 3D machine the profile back to its perfect profile. This could then be vapour blasted to remove all witness marks?
It would be okay to leave the scratches in I beleive but seeing more and more bikes with the timing cover intack makes me want to do the best I can for the restoration.
The timing cover was authentic with the bike, that I'm absolutely convinced of and Henk from this website very kindly sent the military cards for the bike when I originally joined, showing it in service until 1961 were it was then sent to the CVD Egginton depot for decomissioning.
Below is a photo taken when the cover was removed to remove the magneto.
email (option): 79aust@sky.co.uk
Hi Julian...I have done lots of these covers with files, emery and elbow grease. There is plenty of material to allow you to clean them up and with care you can retain the original shape without difficulty. Here's a pic. of my WB30 which recieved similar treatment...Ian
And here's a 'before' picture....
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Ian,
Thank you for the images and info, what a beautiful job you have done their, absolutely stunning and what I hope to see from mine when complete.
A absolute joy to see and makes me even more motivated to see this through.
Thank you for all your support.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.co.uk
Ron & Ian,
You made me re-think what I'm doing with this bike and brought me back to reality a little, working for a machining company does make me a bit of a perfectionist sometimes, thankfully this restoration is bringing me back to basics and decided that tonight maybe I should see if I could clean the timing cover up by hand.
I screwed it onto to blocks of wood in order to protect the location spigot underneath and started with 100 grit emery on a rubber sanding block.
after a little while I managed to get some nice resuilts and more importantly managed to maintain the curved profile of the cover, really suprised just how soft the ali cover is and so easy to remove the scratches quite fast.
I've now got to this stage and as you can see there is a great gash close to the BSA dome but I'm tempted to keep that in as a battle scar:
Really glad I've joined this forum and really appretiate your advice and comments, just goes to show that if you listen, be brave and have a go you will be amazed at the results you can acheive.
I'm looking to get this cover vapour blasted along with the Amal carbs next to give it a beautiful even finish.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
in addition I've also had a sample of the powder coating back today and the first part of the restoration, start small and build up.
The grips have cleaned beautifully with the aid of Sodium Bicarbonate and hot water and the throttle housing is what has been shown earlier when cleaned with the mop.
There is quite a difference in the original condition to now and these sort of results spur you on.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Just finished buffing the timing cover with the good old mop, don't want to vapour blast now as it looks like a mirror.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Just got this picture for the original condition of my BSA M20 back in 1977 with my dad riding it.
The history for this bike means allot and I'm finding it as interesting in getting all the history as I do in the physical work.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Here is the timing cover after vapour blasting:
All of a sudden my restoration is starting to fall into place, the gearbox casings are being vapour blasted and back on Friday, the powder coating was done today and will all be back end of the week, the engine has been re-bored and valves lapped in with head and barrel being stove enamelled and will also be ready on Friday.
I've played around designing and machining some demo handlebar bar ends and will machine the final ones tomorrow in Brass.
I think I'm going to need a christmas tree in the garage as I may be in there all holiday.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Great thread, nice to see your progress
email (option): kit247@hotmail.com
Thanks Sven & Kit,
Been a late night tonight, finish machining the handlebar ends, but chuffed with the results:
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Just goes to show that a bit of perseverance and patients does start to pay off.
Engine starting to get rebuilt after re-bore +20 thou, reseating the valves, shot blast and re-paint the barrel & head (not fitted yet), cleaning all parts with parrafin then cleaning all mating faces gently with a Stanley blade to remove all old sealant and gasket remmerances.
4
If you look at my earlier photos you'll see the difference.
Hope you all have a happy Christmas and prosperous new year.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Thanks Rob,
The reason I had so much trepidation was due to the fact that I've never restored anything in my life before, although I've owned motorcycles and maintained but never undertaken anything like this.
I honestly thought the condition of the bike was to far gone to restore, but really chuffed to see that a bit of hard-work can bring some really inspiring results.
I've learn't that this isn't going to be an overnight success as patience is required when getting to stages and thinking I need to buy new bolts and bits as I go.
I've always maintained that I want the bike to stay as authentic as I possibly can and originally wanted to salvage every original nut and bolt, but this is a little step to far at the moment and although I've saved every nut and bolt, I may get round to re-phosphourising (blackening) the bolts eventually, in the mean time it won't do any harm to have new cadmium plated bolts with the infamous 26tpi British cycle threads, I definitely don't want to re-tap anything metric like I've seen one or two others do.
Last night I've started to get the head bearings in place after allot of patience cleaning up the original grease nipples from the original purple paint, again now it's done I'm quite pleased with the look and as I've heard people say on programmes like American Chopper, you need to look at the bike close up to see the attention to detail.
I'm sure that others like Ian Wright can do a far better job than I, but as my first project I'm satisfied I'm doing all I can to get it to a standard that is far superior than the state I originally received it in.
This website has been amazing with support and advice and I'm starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Good for you Julian for having a go. Too many are daunted by trying to see the end result at the start. You are doing the right thing by concentrating on one part at a time. Sometimes a wheel alone can amount to 20-30 parts and it's great when all those parts are refurbed and painted and you have a complete wheel with tyre sitting in the corner. At least you had a fairly complete bike to start with! Unlike the box's of missing parts some of us have had to contend with. 
Very pleased you're not going with Dads choice of colour. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Thanks Ron,
In my dads defence I think he brought the bike already poorly painted, but I do know he enjoyed the flower power era and hence probably had no issue with the colour at the time, however, times move on and I most certainly would not of put my leg over it and you can't imagine how relieved I was to see the dulled original colour once I took the primary chaincase cover off.
I agree fully with what your saying about the sub assemblies as it really is a joy after cleaning up lots of individual parts with no real effect and then assembling all to get a really surprising result, the headset for me was a prime example as it was always plastered in purple paint and I had no idea that it could look that clean and in my mind correct after restoration.
It's little moments like this that you have to hang on to and enjoy.
Thank you for all your support Ron and I hope to have it complete in 2013 (October at the latest) for a local event to us, Hoggin the Bridge which my daughter is desperate to be pillion on the back once complete.
Have a happy and prosperous new year, with my best regards,
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Hi Julian...Keep up the good work!..'A journey begins with a single step' as the saying goes and that is definitely the best way to tackle these sorts of jobs..one step at a time. It is very easy to get overwhelmed by the task you have taken on if you look at it any other way.
For a while you can get the feeling that you have done loads of work but still don't have anything resembling a bike to show for it..then suddenly it all starts to come together...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Thanks Ian,
I agree entirely with what you are saying and I also have to say that I'm very jealous of the colour you have painted your WB30, the colour I have is dark Olive Drab as it was all my powder coaters had closest to what I originally had, but after seeing your photo I really loved the colour you have managed to achieve and do believe that colour to be closer than what I have at present, I'm not dissatisfied with my colour as it is allot better than the purple and it does draw you in as the light hits and reflects the shades beautifully, but I do believe if I had a few more squid next time I would ask you to assist with your magic paint.
Have a happy new year Ian and I also have to thank you allot for your support.
Kind regards,
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Getting the paint right was the hardest part of my 16H restoration. The local paint suppliers mixed it, but the colour was nowhere near right and the paint they gave me came off with petrol..! Then I changed to 2 pack and after lots of messing about with the shop, I decided to mix the colour myself with matt green and brown paint. I couldn't do any worse than the shop was doing. This has been one of the biggest expenses on the bike but worth getting right as I don't want to strip it down again because I'm not happy with the colour.
If I was doing another WD bike I would buy the synthetic paint from Jeeparts, like many people here do, and mix it myself at a fraction of the cost I've spent on my paint.
It looks like you're doing a great job, keep us posted on your progress
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Time is limited in getting my bike rebuilt due to child minding, but I had a great night last night and this morning I managed to get the forks mounted and the headlight mount attached.
Doesn't sound allot but getting all the bits in a state for re-assembly took quite a few hours. loving the colour a bit more now it's starting to come together. really glad I had everything painted with the same batch powder coat as the colour is so uniform that all the sub assemblies come together perfectly.
Just a little tip, I did have to remove all the original grease nipples to temporarily fit a new 1/4" version in order to load all the fork head tubes with grease using the only grease gun I have available in my garage, have now refitted the original nipples for decoration but will always carry the spare grease nipple in my toolbox if I need to reload with grease at some future point.
Bit stuck now though as I need to wait for a parcel from De Groot for a magneto seal and shims with a number of other bits and bobs to get the engine finished and the magneto re-mounted with the 7/16" BDC setting.
Got the bike lift in preparation now so just awaiting bits and bobs, had a look around/cleanup in the garage and staggered how much space I suddenly have now the frame and forks are re-assembled.
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
It's looking nice Julian..Make sure you check and double check the setting of the timing at 7/16" BTDC (fully advanced) to make sure you have it right. Don't forget to set the points to .012" fully open before you start and that the mesh of the magdrive gear with the one next to it is correct..too tight and it will whine and wear out the drive end bearing in the mag...too loose and it will 'chatter'..You should have just a small amount of free play, with too much being better than too little.
You need to start a new thread as well...this one is getting too long!
...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
]...Ian
Use the strip-of-paper trick; feed a strip of paper between the gears. If you can pull it out easily: too much play. If it comes out mangled: too tight. If it is just tight and comes out undamaged: ok. Add or remove shims as needed; takes time but satisfaction guaranteed
email (option): viaconsu [at] planet [dot] nl