Searched the forum for similar topics, but came up with nowt!

I have a petrol tap - the standard hex type of affair - which was leaking when switched on.

"Ah-ha!" thinks I knowingly, "the cork must be a little past it's prime, I'll replace it."

So I schlepped out to the hangar at the airfield on the other side of False Bay this morning where I keep this particular machine (a 1926 AJS)and changed the offending cork. Guess what? Yip - it still leaks when I push the button to the "on" position.

It seems as though the petrol is leaking at the point where the slide pushes through to create the on/off scenario. I would have thought that a new cork would have solved the issue? In the "off" - or closed - position, no leak at all.

I'm baffled! So I'd thought that I'd tap the collective IP of this forum and see what comes back!

email (option): brucekirby@telkomsa.net

there are two corks one on top of the slide and one underneath.
Did you replace both of them ?

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au

I use modern sort of cork and these last for years already and they never leak.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Yes, that's a 3mm (1/8") rubber-cork gasket material, but some brands are not suitable for petrol with methanol added. I got some space-age gasket material, used in satellites which is completely methanol-proof.

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet [dot] nl

Hi Trevor,

......er.......

No, I only replaced the one.......

I know that this is a daft question, but how does one get to the bottom one? Does the device open up from the bottom as well, i.e., does it unscrew underneath as well? Or does the slide need to be removed?
Thanks for the feedback.

......feel like a bit of an idiot.......

As far as synthetic materials go, I wouldn't mind experimenting with them, but I am cautious with the fuels these days and what they do to synthetics. But definitely a course of action worth investigating.

email (option): brucekirby@telkomsa.net

I tried undoing the other end which looks as though it should be a seperate component, but it didn't budge. Tried another - same story.

Seems as though the top component unscrews with ease on these things, but not the bottom. Given that the hex is offset from the central piece, my conclusion is that it HAS to be a 3-piece item. Or am I being naive again?

**Update @16h00:

I found a picture on the web of a fully dismantled Enots tap and it seems that both ends DO in fact unscrew. I'll try a bit of heat and see if this helps make the things budge....

Anyone have any experience or bright ideas w.r.t. this?

email (option): brucekirby@telkomsa.net

email (option): unpob@yahoo.com

Thanks for the picture Henri - appreciated.

Just tried a bit of gentle heat and it came apart without a problem!

So at least I've learnt something! Thanks to the folk that responded to my howls for help!

email (option): brucekirby@telkomsa.net

Hi Bruce, Be careful not to put to much torque on the slide when trying to unscrew as that can easily ruin the body. I made a small tool from 2 strips of aluminium with a V groove and a bolt to keep the strips in place. Now you can grip the body without touching the slide, works fine.






Regards, Michiel

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

Hi Michiel,

That is good advice indeed! I was wondering how to get around that problem. The one tap that I experimented with had had the "push on" piece missing, so it fitted in a vice quite comfortably. The one that is still on the bike is complete though, and your design will be most useful.

I'll whip one together - thanks!

email (option): brucekirby@telkomsa.net

The collective knowledge and advice on this forum always impresses me, it shows that any problem has been covered in one way or another at some time in the past.
I was all set to replace my taps with the BAP type that Ian suggested, but maybe I'll have a go at replacing the corks with a modern alternative. Hans, do you sell the corks? Or where can I buy them?
Michiel, neat idea and simple for the holding jig. I have 2 bikes with these taps (M20 and 1948 A7) and will see if they are repairable.
Thanks!

email (option): vinver(at)ns.sympatico.ca

They are free Vincent, eternal gratitude will suffice
Just need your address
Hans
who has given up hope to become rich one day

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet [dot] nl

Just to add my two penny worth.
If your cork tap leaks after a lay off before replacing said corks then try leaving the tap soaking in fuel over night - this is usually enough to swell the corks and make it seal again.
Hope this helps.
regards
Clive

"The collective knowledge and advice on this forum always impresses me, it shows that any problem has been covered in one way or another at some time in the past.
I was all set to replace my taps with the BAP type that Ian suggested, but maybe I'll have a go at replacing the corks with a modern alternative. Hans, do you sell the corks? Or where can I buy them?
Michiel, neat idea and simple for the holding jig. I have 2 bikes with these taps (M20 and 1948 A7) and will see if they are repairable."


I get mine from a bottle of good red
If you cut them yourself get a cork bore ( usually available from Laboratory supply companies )
They are what we use for making holes in bungs to fit tubes through when we make thos bubbleing things with coloured liquids in them.

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au