I know you've all done this or seen pictures of it. But here's mine 16H tank I've just lettered this weekend. It was one of the most nerve racking jobs I've done as I'd spent so much time getting the paintwork right, I really didn't want to mess it up.

I didn't use the tank that was on the bike as it needed more work (I thought) than this one that came to me with a job lot of parts.




It looked less dented than the one on the bike. I later found someone had tried to drill out a broken tank bolt and drilled straight through the tank as well The seams also needed re-welding along with the pump brackets.



I was pleased with the final paint finish.
My mate has a vinyl cutting machine, and after going through lots of old pictures getting the font and size right, he cut out my C number for me.
I really couldn't be bothered to mask off the whole tank and mix paint for the spray gun etc, so I brush painted it. Which also gives it a look of being sign written.



I was sure I was going to rip the water transfers which was a fiddly delicate job. I'm not sure now that they're going to stay on and I might lightly lacquer over them.

I'm just happy I didn't mess it up.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Looking very good indeed, you must be chuffed.

I'm guessing you're at a similar stage to me with my M20 - how long until its maiden voyage?

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Hi Horror..It's looking smart but you will definitely need to varnish over the water transfers for them to stay intact. You can get satin and matt spirit based varnishes that can be applied with a brush...Varnish the transfers so that the varnish just overlaps the edge of the transfer.I normally apply two coats..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Lee, thanks, yes I was dreading doing the lettering and I'm very pleased that jobs done
Yes I think we are at about the same stage in our rebuilds. I still haven't got my crankcases back, so I'm doing as much as I can without an engine. You can see a picture of it on a post called "It's getting there" a couple of days ago. Hope yours is going together well

Hi Ian, thanks very much for that info, that's just what I needed to know. I will go and get some tomorrow.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

The tank looks terrific, very nice, it looks like it’s been sign written by hand. My lettering was stencilled quite roughly, which, oddly enough, was actually quite difficult to replicate. Just remember to go very, very lightly with the lacquer. Several very light dustings will be better than two heavier ones. If the lacquer is applied too heavily, it can soak into and eat through the varnish and make the transfer crinkle up and then you'll have to start all over again. Also, if you go on too heavily, you'll end up with a shiny spot on your nice matt paintwork.

Nice job Horror,

Where did you buy the transfer decals?

Reg

Hinrik

email (option): hsteinsson28@hotmail.com

Hi Bill, good advice thanks My main problem with painting is I put it on too thick. I just put a bit more on here and before I know it, I've got a run. So I have to train myself to do light layers. There's so much work gone into painting this tank that the lettering has been terrifying me, give me an engine to pull apart any day. I have to try and find the right lacquer first. Halfords will be my first stop I think.

Thanks Henrik
The transfers were from Classic Transfers

http://www.classictransfers.co.uk/

Rik saved me messing up here, as he sent me all the transfer numbers I needed for the whole bike. All I had to do was order them. Cheers Rik

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Hi Horror..Assuming you have sprayed the parts of the bike and have not laquered over the top coat all you need for varnishing the transfers is a brush on varnish with the correct finish (matt, satin etc.) You can get this from model shops in the small Humbrol type tins and that is the right type of varnish. Buy the best quality small brush of a suitable size, which you can also get from a model shop, to apply it. Try a test area..inside a mudguard or similar, to confirm everything is OK before moving on to the tank transfers..If you buy varnish elsewhere be careful to buy a spirit based varnish..such as yacht varnish, to ensure you don't get an adverse reaction.....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

My M20 transfers came from the VMCC and they came with the warning not to use a cellulose or acrylic lacquer as the transfer may shrink. I'm not sure what Halfords use in their tins, but I'm guessing it'll not only be shiny, but will be based upon something that waterslide transfers don't like. I'm not 100% on this and any other feedback would be usefull, but I wouldn't want your hard work to be in vain.
I used a Lechler 2K matt lacquer with a further 20% mix of matting agent and it's impossible to tell laquered and unlacquered olive drab panels apart, except that the 2K lacquer gives a more durable finish, especially with petrol.
If you're just looking to protect the transfers, I'd say Ian's advice is looking good.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Cellulose lacquer will make the transfer shrink if applied straight to it, but some varnishes can go cloudy and yellow with age and exposure to sunlight, so the best thing I've found is to do both. Paint over with a good quality varnish as Ian suggests and a couple of days later, dust it over with 3 or 4 coats of lacquer straight from Halfords. If you get a shiny spot where the lacquar is applied (which you shouldn't if you do it lightly) just give it a very light rub over with some 1200 grit paper and plenty of soap and water. This will make it appear matt again.

Thanks for the great advice, you've all been very helpful to stop me cocking it up at the end. I didn't manage to get any lacquer from Halfords, yes it was all gloss. So I'll be hunting for a model shop tomorrow.

Ian's option sounds a lot cheaper than buying 2K lacquer for the small amount I'll need. I do need some lacquer for another bike, but if it's got matting agent in it, it'll be no good for anything else.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

The original Norton transfers were of the 'gold size' fixing type and they were not lacquered or varnished. They did indeed abrade over time but they're positioned well forward and don't tend to get fuel on them.

I applied mine about two years ago and didn't get round to putting anything on top. They're still fine which is more than can be said for that 'isocyanate-free 2k' that must rank as my worst ever purchase.

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Dave, all my transfers are painted with one reasonably heavy coat of Humbrol mat or satin clear lacquer applied with a small soft brush. All acquired from a model shop. Sadly it seems Humbrol are disappearing and being replaced by that nasty Revlon acrylic. If you see humbrol at your shop. can you buy me a tin each of mat and satin. Cheers Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Rik, the tank had transfers on it before I painted it, as you can see from the picture. They had stayed on when all the green paint had disappeared.

I've seen your bikes Ron, and I wouldn't have guessed they were lacquered on the transfers. You can't see it at all. There was a very good model shop in town, if it's still there, I'll see if they've got any. If not, there's another in Cheltenham.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

The Model shop in town is called Antics, they have shops all over the country. I've looked on line and they have Humbrol matt varnish, it says it's a solvent varnish, is that correct? Anyone wanting it can buy it on line.
Ron, if you want me to get you some I can, it just depends how quick you want it. It's saying there are 3 tins left in the Gloucester shop.
Isn't modern technology great

http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/688_1_13960.html

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

No panic for me Dave. I still have some. I'd just like to be sure of future stock. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Nice one Dave!!

Have today also made a marking on the tank, am not too pleased, but painting upside down hanging over the tank is not a fun thing, with the handlebars poking in your ear!

Anyway, the embarkation code for 4RNF (Royal Northumbrian Fuseliers) is on the tip of the mudguard, and the census number on the near side of the tank, now only a girls name on the front number plate, in chalk, was only done for the Pathe(tic)propoganda film on the 21st of march 1940, but who cares.

First I printed out a template, that was the most work, to draw/modify on the computer



That I taped to the tank, and with a lead pencil I traced everything.

Removed the template, and hand painted everything on, had previously painted the black rectangle ofcoarse.





Another job done!! but it gets more and more irritating that the bike is the wrong colour, but it has to wait!!

And before someone else says it, the A.O.S. marking (white 18 ) background is probably wrong, but then nobody knows!! but might change it to dark red.

Cheers,

Lex

email (option): Welbike@welbike.net

Hi Lex, you're a braver man than me to paint that free hand, and it looks good

What's wrong with the colour of the bike?

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Horror

Hi Lex, you're a braver man than me to paint that free hand, and it looks good

What's wrong with the colour of the bike?

email (option): Welbike@welbike.net

Your "Norton" transfers look really good.

In 1942-43 your Big 4 was probably painted brown Lex
My bike IS a 42 bike and was probably brown but I've done it KG3
Shhhh no one will know unless we tell them

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk