Preparing the oil tank for powder coating, I had to clean it out; used a spray gun with kerosene and an astonishing quantity of thick black mud came out; 3000 miles ago it was operation-room clean !

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

I use latest technology oil in my antique bikes & its better at holding that crud in suspension but people will argue which is best for ever.
Correct me if im wrong but your using monograde oil ??

Do you have an angry neighbor?

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

Do you have a gasket on that tank? I'm not sure I saw one. On Wednesday I'm collecting a rule die I designed to make leather gaskets for my petrol and oil tanks. Do you need any?

Is that mud road dust that seeped in? Or, is is crud the new detergent oil is cleaning out from say a sludge trap?

Whatever it is, it's not pretty.

Cheers

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

email (option): lee@twowheelstested.co.uk

Hi Folks
Firstly Rob I'd like 2 gaskets please – let me know how much and postage.
Secondly I've always used modern multi fleet oil (15-40 grade suitable for light diesel and petrol engines) in my R60 (1960 BMW) and am always surprised how dirty it is when I change it (often and not many miles) (rebuilt the motor in the early 1970s due to stupid BMW design of oil slingers feeding the bigends which act as centrifuges and cannot be cleaned out without stripping the motor down to the crankshaft!!! changed the oil very often ever since). I intend to use the same oil in the M20 when I get it back on the road as I have a free supply. The BMW doesn't have any form of oil filtering at all and I have never worked out a method to fit one – does anyone make a modern filter to fit in place of the oil tank filter in the M20? My oil tank and bottom of the timing chest cover had some sludge in it (haven't had the sump plate off yet) The motor was running when I got the bike in mid the 1960s and has always had oil in it and turned over now and then since.
Best wishes
Doug W

email (option): watsond@xnet.co.nz

I looked at an M20 that had a Norton remote cartridge filter mounted on the front lower engine plate bolt, stuck out behind the front mudguard.It looked odd! But I suppose it was catching some of the bits.My M21 "blackens/burns" the oil so that it's brown in less than 1000 miles,then it gets changed.Earlier threads suggest regular oil chages, rather than straining the sludge.

I would say 15-40w oil was too thin for an M20

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

It says in the AJS handbook to use the best oil possible and that 'if you wish to economise on something, cut back on your cigarettes'.

email (option): viaconsu # planet dot nl

That's actually a good point, how good was the oil of yesterday compared to todays product? I'm sure someone out there will know.

I've always done exactly the same and bought the cheapest I could find, but I've recently started to use a modern Multigrade. There hasn't been any disernable difference, but I'm sure you get what you pay for and a better oil will give better service?

cheap oil of today will be ok if you are going to change it regularly

email (option): roger.beck@node6.com

email (option): teladelujo@msn.com

I would consider a 15/40 unsuitable for the M20. With multi grade I have never gone below 20/50, though this grade is gradually becoming obsolete as modern engines use the lighter grades.
I'm no oil expert so a few years back I spoke to the technical dept. people at Morris's Oils. They still recommend a monograde 40 for these types of engines with a change to 50 in very hot operating conditions and that is what I use...They manufacture the full range of oils so there was no 'vested interest' in making that recommendation.
Todays monogrades bear no comparison at all to the original oils...Oil companies have been continuously developing there products over the last 60 years. I would imagine use of an unsuitable oil, unless it was so off spec. that you had immediate problems, would have implications over the long term such as higher levels of wear after high mileages...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com