I've decided to do one or two of the jobs that I've kept putting off, the first is sorting out the leaking petrol taps / pipe / whatever.
On removing the taps from the tanks, there was lots of bits of petseal stuck to the filters, so I took the tank off and started blowing the air line in it, bloody hell! absolutely loads of the stuff came out. Now I need to know how to get rid of the stuff that's still there, then what to use to seal it afterwards? Any idea's guys?

email (option): jimstott51@virginmedia.com

If you contact 'Autocycle Engineering' 01384 253030. They can sell you some of this solvent for removing Petseal. They also sell an Ethanol resistant liner. But I'd check out the internet for an Ethanol poof product. Also don't do what I did hear by using bubble wrap. On previous tanks that I have stripped, I used layers of newspaper with no adverse effect. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Is this the sort of thing being discussed...?

email (option): teladelujo@msn.com

Yep! I've got that T shirt four times so far.
Although the title of this thread is "Crappy Petseal"
It should read Crappy Petrol.Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

You guys never learn. Don't use anything. If it leaks repair it.Solder is fine.

Yeah well Douglas. The product worked well for years until someone decided to start putting obnoxious substances in the petrol. How does solder help fibreglass tanks and rubber pump seals and other materials under threat. It's only a matter of time before the ethanol in petrol starts to work on solder I believe. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Maybe you can fill it with M.E.K Methyl-etyl keton it is verry difficult to get bud it even make your epoxy powder coating weak look out for your paint and close every hole. it is olso verry poisend. wear gloves ets. Gr. Theo

email (option): indian@inter.nl.net

A guy in our club had exactly the same problem. He has reclined 3 different tanks with different product and has tested them over the last 6 months. One of the products failed fairly quickly, although he does not say which make it was. The two other products he has used and are still good 6 months later were Caswell GTS 1750 and Slosh. He says that Slosh was the cheapest and easiest to use. I have no idea where you get it from. John

email (option): Tinley@btinternet.com

I'm glad the Caswell works as that's what I've put in my fibreglass tank

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

M.E.K. is used in the print game so if you know a friendly printer

Slosh is being sold by Draganfly.

email (option): leonhop3@planet.nl

Ive had an issue of late with this stuff, my metal tank is lined with white "stuff" I've taken a load of it out recently and there is still bits left attatched to the tank, its like very hard rubber when there is fuel in the tank and once dried, its very brittle, obviously the petrol is the disolving agent.

My tank still doesnt leak, so my issue is that a) 1/2 the tank is lined and 1/2 is bare metal so may rust without new lining? b) there are and will be bits of this white lining stuff coming off that will get in the fuel lines and block it again.

I've been on to those tank lining folk and they say not to use anything as theirs won't bond to the stuff in the tank I can't get out. Would slosh be any better? Other alternative is to use fuel taps with filter gauzes on them, but only seen these on the "Doctors tap" type, not the "push" type. OR get someone to blast the tank out, and start a fresh..

Any thoughts, or taps for sale with filters, or of course shall I try slosh? too many blinking options..

Would this fit the tank and the pipes, might be a solution although not ideal..
http://www.meadspeed.com/products/yamaha/td2-tza/fuel-tap

email (option): kit247@hotmail.com

Kit. See my post towards the beginning of this thread for info on the solvent to remove the old liner. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Kit, Put the solvent into the tank with a handful of small nuts and bolts (count them first)and gently shake them to help dislodge the petseal. After you've got the petseal out I wouldn't line it with anything. If the tank leaks, fix the problem on the outside of the tank. I have had lots of tanks re-welded on the seams etc, the petrol has usually taken the paint off where the leak is so a small weld isn't going to make the paint any worse. You can grind it back and make it unnoticeable.

I have used brass taps similar to the one on the web link and if they're the same, they have no rubber seal, they rely on a ground metal to metal seal. This will leak within weeks.
I have soldered some gauzes from broken taps onto my originals. Make a flat edge around the gauze and use plenty of flux on the tap top and the gauze and heat up the brass tap area and tin it with solder. Then just place the gauze onto the molten solder until it sets. If you put a flame on the gauze it will burn away.

Have fun

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Hello again,the saga continues...
Autocycle Engineering, after sending them samples, said the solvent had no effect in dissolving,what apparently is a US product called 'Creame', has anyone got any experience with this stuff, I guess all I can do is put new sealer over the top of it, to stop the stuff slowly blocking the fuel..If it will stick..

I've got out what I can, but there are still bits coating the tank, when I put fuel in it small bits continue to flake off, disolve and block the entry point to the fuel pipe, as well as inside the carb blocking the small holes in that lower brass nut...humphhhh

email (option): Kit247@hotmail.com

Ah its actually Kreem, I've emailed the US but auto say I can pour their product over the top. Appart from chemical cleaning the whole tank at the cost of £ and loosing my c numbers/transfers, the last option I can think of is cutting the bottom off the tank, is that a viable option as a matter of last resort..

email (option): Kit247@hotmail.com

hi all has any one tryed this stuff. www.fueltanks.co.uk
it costs about 200 + vat, i have just been having a 1956 honda tank done, from someone else, they got most of the old stuff out, but iam left with patches of a paint like liner, i have seen it in most of the early 1950's honda bikes, so iam about £70 , with still a dirty tank, someone in the usa, said to try this process, the tank should be chrome panels with a painted centre, would it be better to have the tank dechromed, would that clean the inside. curt.

I have only once used a sealer inside a tank once never again.I reckon the best way to get this crap out of your tank is to burn it out !!!! obviously you wiil need a new paint job afterwards. I now repair my tanks properly ie; from the outside or cutting out the rusted part then replacing it.If you have rust in your tank but no leaks then I like the idea of a handfull of nuts and a litre of diesel then sealing tank before wrappimg tank in old blanket then a slow spin in cement mixer.Most people are afraid of welding a tank for repair but once the fumes are gone then there is no problem. As for everything else modern fuels attack reckon you,ll have to live with it,but must admit so far hasn,t affected any of my machines. Dave

Before you do anything totally drastic like setting fire to your tank, why not use the chemical that's making it break up? I've made bio-diesel and buy Methanol, so you must be able to buy Ethanol as well. They are similar chemicals. Methanol might even work and it's about £30-£40 for a drum of 25ltrs I think it was from G M P Chemicals 01934 624468 Weston Super Mare, and they delivered it to my door.

I'm sure if you search the net you'll find somewhere near you. I would plug the tank up, fill it up and leave it. The worst that can happen is it has no effect, but it might work.

Ok a quick search and I've found this Ethanol supplier.

http://www.ethanol.co.uk/products

You can always put the remainder of the stuff in your petrol when finished

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Hi all
Here is an article i picked up on changes to fuel and ethanol content being proposed in the USA by their EPA which may or not be of interest to you

From previous posts, I completely agree with Douglas, if your tank is no leaking, don't use sealant
However from my sources I am led to believe that higher levels of ethanol has "allegedly" damaged metal tanks too in tests undertaken
EN15 is coming our way eventually, let's hope our hobbys suppliers are are better prepared for these higher levels

"The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency approved the first applications for the registration of ethanol for use in making gasoline that contains up to 15 percent ethanol, bringing us “another step closer to consumers being confused by the offering of E15 at their local gas station,” according to Cindy Squires, chief counsel for public affairs and director of regulatory affairs for the National Marine Manufacturers Association.

“Registration of ethanol to make E15 is a significant step toward its production, sale and use in model year 2001 and newer gasoline-fueled cars and light trucks,” the EPA said in a statement.

To enable widespread use of E15, the Obama administration has set a goal to help fueling station owners install 10,000 blender pumps during the next five years. In addition, through the Recovery Act and the 2008 Farm Bill, the U.S. Department of Energy and the U.S. Department of Agriculture have provided grants, loans and loan guarantees to spur “American ingenuity on the next generation of biofuels,” according to the agency.

Registration is a prerequisite to introducing E15 into the marketplace. Before it can be sold, manufacturers must take additional measures to help ensure that retail stations and other gasoline distributors understand and implement labeling rules and other E15-related requirements.

The EPA is not requiring the use or sale of E15, and it is not permitted for use in motor vehicles built prior to the 2001 model year and in off-road vehicles and equipment such as boats and lawn and garden equipment.

The NMMA, and other industry groups, oppose E15, saying it can too easily find its way into boat and other engines for which it was not designed. Studies have shown that E15 can harm marine engines.

“It is difficult to say when the first E15 pumps will be operational, but given the speed in which EPA is working to complete the steps it is possible that in the next year or two that we could see the first pumps appear in a few states,” Squires said in an e-mail to ???. “Of course, this whole E15 experiment could take a completely different turn if the court overturns the EPA waiver and sends the agency back to the drawing board.”

The U.S. Court of Appeals for the D.C. Circuit has scheduled oral argument for April 17 in the NMMA’s case challenging the EPA action. Squires said she is “hopeful” the court will issue its ruling soon after oral arguments"

JO'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

hi,has anyone tried any experiments with other chemicals to remove / dissolve this gunge? i have methanol apleanty but no petseal to try it on.gun wash or even thinners may be sufficient
to dissolve it.if john edwards wants to post me some samples i will see if i can find something to remove it.
cheers rick

email (option): richardholt@rocketmail.com

A friend of mine recently bought a tank seal repair kit. It had the new Ethanol proof tank sealer, but also a tin of acetone to remove the old sealer, which it did do. He thought it was all out and filled with the new sealer. As he was shaking the tank, a very large lump of old sealer came loose and it wouldn't fit though the filler hole. He used some copper wire to suspend the large lump while the new sealer set. Then he had to cut the lump up to get it out. He got in a right mess

But Acetone is the chemical normally used, I think it said not for fibreglass tanks.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

hi dave,well then theres the answer acetone,available as nail varnish remover probably on most market stalls.cant be rocket science can it.cheers rick

email (option): richardholt@rocketmail.com

Hi Biffo...I used Tapox in the tank of my WB30 when I restored it..It worked fine but like you I found it had a very long cure time...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I ordered some stuff from Ron's Auto Engineering yesterday, bought some bolts today for shaking and it's taking a lot out, I'm hoping the new tank sealer will go over the old ok, as I can't get it all out, where it's thickest it's still adhered to the tank well.... just as well I have ear plugs already, let's see how we get on..

email (option): Kit247@hotmail.com

Kit, you really need to get some of that Petseal dissolver and get it all out.

email (option): jimstott51@virginmedia.com