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clutch drain nut

Dear Friends, I tried to change my gearbox oil yesterday and couldn't undo the clutch drain nut. Has anyone got any advice. I don't want to damage the nut or strip the thread. thanks in hope. all best peter

email (option): peter.beresford3@btopenworld.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Hi Peter,

When I change the oil in the gearbox,
I try to get the bike in an angle forward (Like park it climbing up) and then
Use an oil drain pump (Kind of a huge syringe with a short flexable plastic tube attached)

http://www.plumbingsuppliesandfittings.co.uk/admin/images/16566_ManSmokePump241109.jpg

To suck out the old oil.
It is actually very fast and easier then drain from bottom.

By the way, the clutch drain is not the gearbox drain..
You can also use this pump to suck the oil from the clutchchain box via inspecting cup.

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Hi Peter..The drain plug under the primary chaincase drains the case only. The gearbox drain plug is located below the kickstart, but underneath the gearbox...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Peter the clutch drain and gearbox drain are two separate items. The gear box drain is in the bottom of the gear box ally casing and is more easily accessible from underneath the right hand side of the bike. For this operation you need a 5/16" Whitworth spanner. The clutch drain is in the tin case just below the left footpeg. You need a 1/4" Whitworth spanner. Both operations are best performed with a socket and preferably a six sided socket, especialy if the plug hex's are rounded off. Ron

PS three of us typing together I think!

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Hi Noam, that's a great pump, but it's £95 including VAT..!

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Re: clutch drain nut

Ron PierBoth operations are best performed with a socket and preferably a six sided socket, especialy if the plug hex's are rounded off. Ron ![/quote


FWIW... I have chucked up the several 6-point sockets that fit various drain bolts and cut them down to eliminate the socket edge champher, assuring a maximum engagement of the socket wall to the bolt head.

This is especially helpful when trying to remove a drain or any fastener with a partially rounded head, the extra socket wall contact area afforded by removing the champher makes a big difference.

The loss of the champher does not reduce the usefulness of the socket for other applications...perhaps just a bit more fiddly to engage when say, working up under a fender or some such. Have also done the same with a ring spanner to get it to fit flush on the fastener, by grinding away the champher, when required for the job at hand.

JDE

email (option): teladelujo@msn.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Dear Everyone, thanks for advice and ideas. By the way I don't know why i put clutch when I meant gearbox!!! I couldn't get my socket set easily to fit over the gearbox drain nut because of things in the way, so i tried ring spanner. I like the idea of draining from the top. Very many thanks for now. this has been really helpful. all best peter

email (option): peter.beresford3@btopenworld.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Hi Horror,
That’s just a photo I found..

I use a much cheaper one, Taiwan made, works great and cost me some 10-12 Pounds..

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Re: clutch drain nut

Hi Horror,
That’s just a photo I found..

I use a much cheaper one, Taiwan made, works great and cost me some 10-12 Pounds..

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

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