I just received my new brake cable and fitted it . Unfortunately the adjuster is pretty much all the way screwed out before the brake gets any bite and its possible to pull the lever right back against the bars . Is my cable too long then or can I adjust the brake any other way to keep this cable?

email (option): andrew.honychurch@btinternet.com

Have you got new shoes fitted Andrew? The trouble is, as the shoes wear the cable can run out of adjustment. If you turn the brake arm back onto the next notch, you will then need a longer cable. If you bought the cable from JJ. The best option is to send it back to them and ask them to reduce the free length by 1/2" or 3/4" or whatever. They will usually do it free. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron, well actually they have already had it back as they fitted the incorrect threaded bolt on the end, so I could not try it. Now I have tried it we have the problem outlined above. I did not fit new shoes on the front but they were not very low at all. Is it possible to fit a collar to help ? I was wondering about moving the arm one notch, you are pretty sure it will be too much for the cable if I do that?

email (option): andrew.honychurch@btinternet.com

Hi, this can be a problem, I asked the MD of Wassells a couple of years back why their cables never fitted correctly, basically he said the ones they sold were the cheapest they could get, ensuring that both the company and the retailer got the maximum profit! Personally I'd rather have paid more for them and got one that fitted correctly, but basically most of the ones you buy these days are these "cheap" ones and usually the fitting is as you explained, not enough adjustment. You could try unsoldering the nipple and soldering it on a little tiny bit further up the cable, not forgetting to spread the cable ends out so that the nipple dosen't pull off. Some of these cables have a die cast end, with these you'd have to cut the nipple off and fit a brass one. Personally if I couldn't get hold of an old stock one such as a Romac type or similar, I wouldn't bother buying one I'd rather make one from scratch, they aren't too hard to do (usually you'd have to pinch the adjuster off your old cable) as long as you ensure that you spread out and peen over the ends of the cable so that it wouldn't pull through the nipples. You can buy cables as a kit for brake and clutches with a selection of various nipples to suit each application.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Correct adjustment of the M20 brake is problematic. There are basically two possible positions for the operating arm provided by the shape machined into the arm.
The 'upper' position brings the arm too close to 90 degrees to the axis of the fork legs, particularly when the shoes are worn, the 'lower'position being better in this respect.
When new linings are fitted and the brake is set up it is a fairly simple matter to deduce the best position for the arm and then to work out the amount of free length required. However, as the shoes become worn it has a great effect on adjustment.
I actually have two cables..one for new shoes and another for when they get more worn.
I think the problem may stem form the fact the brake was designed to be rod operated originally, with only a short cable. The rod is totally inflexible and the cable much shorter so the potential for flex, caused by compression of the outer cable, is much reduced,
It is important therefore that the inner cable is as heavy as possible and the outer cable is of the best obtainable quality.
Assuming I can obtain/make all the parts I intend to refit the rod operated portion to my M20 when I rebuild it shortly. I think it is a better set up and more likely to produce a good brake...and the M20 brake should be good, it is 7" diameter and has much wider shoes than most.
Also, the fixed pivot for the shoes is located in a slot in the brake plate..If the nut retaining this is loosened and the brake applied it allows for a degree of 'centering' of the shoes within the hub. Tighten up again with the brake still applied...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Andrew the technical term for what Dave is trying to explain, is a 'cats arse'.
I can't believe that JJ made the wrong cable end!!
The quality of the materials they use is always top notch (lots of brass and stainless). Never the less if it doesn't fit, just phone them with the problem. Tom is a dry old Welsh bugger and Dave is very mild mannered, but both willing to please. Mention my name and tell them that I suggested that they would correct it for you.
They never seem to want to deviate from their old Amal and Brown Bros. books.
I've had loads of cables from them and a few have had to go back for modification. But all done willingly and free. Where possible I try to give them samples or measurements. Especially speedo cables must be measured exactly. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes, we have agreed to differ on the cable requirements for M20s..I get them all made to patterns I supply him with...or increasingly, I make them myself.
Like most people, I suspect, I think I know best but I can understand them sticking to their 'books'..If they altered their specs every time someone suggested an alternative there would be no end to it!...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I bought all my cables from John (3guns) in Oz, and they are spot on for length as per the parts books, and standards book. I've had no problems at all making adjustments. I highly recommend him.

John 3guns(ukcarbs@hotmail.com)

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

I do have the Romac catalogue if anyone needs to find out which cable lengths they need for their cables

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

thanks for the help guys. I think the answer here is to just send back the cable to have a little taken off the length. Any easy sure fire way of getting that right? If anyone does have the exact measurements for a late, 1944 M20 front brake cable it will be interesting to compare with what I have? Ron, the reason that JJ put the incorrect thread on the end was that there were apparently two sizes and the opted for the wrong one!

email (option): andrew.honychurch@btinternet.com

Girder fork models used only one size (thread diameter) of cable adjuster..the other size was for tele fork models. There are two types though..those with a round, knurled adjuster and locking ring and those with a hexagonal adjuster and lock nut.
I have found the latter style to be the better of the two..the larger diameter knurled adjuster can contact the front mudguard stay making adjustment difficult....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

thanks Ian, I will tell JJ when they get this back from me. you are correct that the knurled knob contacts the stays and makes it tricky to adjust.

email (option): andrew.honychurch@btinternet.com