I had clutch completed half year ago. Now when fitted I found out that disks were totally stuck together. All steel plates were badly rusted. Cleaned up with acid but I don't know if I can use them again. So dry clutch can't be too dry. Nice christmas present:)

Hi Kalle...Yes, this can happen when a clutch with new plates is left assembled but not used.
Generally, the primary drive side is one of the last things I put together when building a bike for this reason. A light application of WD 40 or similar with any excess wiped off helps and doesn't seem to affect the operation of the clutch....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Now I know that new friction plates are bit spongy and keeps moisture very well. What do you think if steel plates with bit rough surface are usable? I can polish them a bit with sandpaper. Anyway, new plates are out of my budget at the moment and I will give a try.

No problem with that Kalle...I have done it myself ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

stainless steel clutch plates problem solved

email (option): roger.back@node6.com

Good idea Roger..they should work OK. When I get the next batch made I'll change the material...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Any ideas to what specification this material must correspond to? I know somebody who got made brake disks from stainless steel for his guzzi. Will the same material do?

Are we talking about RUST or surface rust, big difference. It's amazing when people see a little surface rust on something and scream blue murder. I'm glad to accept all surface rust items for free please!

Are you sure that stainless steel will be suitable for clutch plates, I think the grip will be poor. The Japenese used to use stainless steel for their discs on their brakes, looked good but stopping was terrible, they soon reverted to steel. Just a thought before lots of money is spent.

Hi Ian..I don't think it will be a problem...The disc brake comparison might be misleading...My Sportster has stainless steel discs, as do many Japanese bikes. What has changed to make them viable is not the disc material but the disc pad material.
Compatability with the M20 fibre plates will need to be tested though.
I'll get some done with my next batch of plates...but I won't be selling them until I have tried them in my own bike to ensure they are OK...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Fair comment, will be interesting to see the outcome, keep us posted.

Hi Ian..Will do..I have two or three sets of steel plates left so will get some more after Xmas...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Anybody tried to convert M20 clutch from dry to wet type.
This could solve all the problems.

I think with the correct main shaft sleeve. It's quite easy to fit the later four spring Triumph clutch. Nice in operation and easier to maintain. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Because it was to heavy for me, I removed the single spring clutch and replaced it with the standard 6 spring that I had, fitted with no problems and has worked well for the past 2 years.

i should think most of the early post war bsa clutches would fit ie B31/33 A7 A10 or am i wrong

email (option): roger.back@node6.com

I have run my M20 for 20 years with one friction and one steel plate removed. It's very light in operation and never slips. It also still works fine even though I have increased my engine to 600cc. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com