another problem of working without a Workshop Manual ( which one and where can I get one ?) is that you dont really know what to expect, but having dismantled the clutch today, I was met with a bit of a wobbly set up. by which I mean the whole clutch housing could wobble a bit and the collar nut had a strange adaption on, see the photo. When I did take of the nut, the inside thread was pretty much non existent and the whole cluthc housing fell off dropping a load of barrel bearings on the floor! Oh dear. Does this sound correct ? I am still awaiting delivery of a puller so that I can remove the collar and continue the strip down.
Sorry about the grubby thumb!
email (option): andrew.honychurch@btinternet.com
hi andrew,those four adjusting screws look to be a previous attempt to get the clutch running true ,by adjusting the four screws and then locking the locknuts.im no expert ,and its 41 years since i stripped one of these,it sounds to me that the basket was already worn out when the previous attempt was made to correct it,the barrell shaped rollers should be cylindrical,looks like all the play has let them wear unevenly.when i unscrewed my nut all those years ago ,it nearly removed my nuts as i was sat on the shed step at the right height .this also stripped some of the threads from the nut,yours however is probably wear,due to the unequal forces caused by those adjusters.an old army chap told me ,to safely remove the nut you can screw a bolt down the centre of the shaft with appropriate bar or washer to hold the tension in the spring as you remove it backing off the nut and bolt as you go .he told me the army emergency way was to use the back brake rod as this is the same thread.i think you may need some new parts.cheers rick
email (option): richardholt@rocketmail.com
Hi Andrew, The modification to the clutch nut to allow variable pressure around the circumference of the clutch spring was a REME mod to ease the set up of the clutch lift. As standard it was non adjustable so there was no adjustment for uneven lift.
The ends of the clutch spring were ground parallel when manufactured. However, even with a new spring the clutch would sometimes lift unevenly. With use the springs tend to 'settle' with the ends out of square and then lift is always uneven.
Wear of the clutch bearing race, clutch sleeve, roller bearings and the back of the clutch center all contribute to the 'tilt' and 'fore and aft' movement of the sprocket which will be apparent even with everything fully assembled and tightened.
Substitution with new components is the only way to reduce/eliminate this movement, the exception being the clutch centre which can be machined out on the rear to reduce the 'fore and aft' aspect of the play.
However, you will need ready access to a lathe to carry out this work as there is usually a degree of trial and error involved.
I know until recently Russel motors still had new clutch sleeves, and rollers are readily available. So are new clutch springs and nuts, plates and clutch centers..
Clutch sprockets, which include the outer bearing track are no longer available to my knowledge.
There is some information in the tech section by Hans and myself which is relevant...but you should buy yourself the appropriate worksheets/manual sooner rather than later to avoid 'poking about in the dark'..Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi Roger..the clutch sleeve is the part that fits to the gearbox mainshaft and carries the clutch...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com