Anyone out there got any insight on the efficacy of using impact drivers on 60-odd year old machinery?
I've always managed without one, but I've also damaged a few components in my time, and damaged myself more than once.
However, what's the inside track? Can these tools do significant damage to casings or components (thread compression or something)? And is there anyone who's had negative experience with them?
Hi Danny..I've got one in my toolkit. Generally it only gets to see any action when I strip a motor/gearbox etc. that hasn't been apart for a long time.
When a conventional screw driver and the application of a little heat, where appropriate, fail to shift a stubborn screw the impact driver is the tool of last resort. As the other part of an impact driver is a hammer consideration should be given to the amount of force being applied and the strength and degree of support around any screw that it is being used on. With care and the correct 'bit' fitted there shouldn't be any collateral damage.
It is never needed once an engine etc. has been correctly overhauled and assembled.
On a related subject, the screw driver is probably the most abused tool in the box, being used variously as a screwdriver, scraper, pry bar and chisel.
A full range of sizes should be kept and the correct one selected for a given slot size. I keep some just for screwing things in and out, others that have become worn for abusing....Ian
Ian, you're right about keeping a proper range of screwdrivers. I keep meaning to buy a really good quality set, but haven't yet. Trouble is, unlike yourself I'm only an occasional mechanic; just generally fixing and servicing my bikes when I really have to, etc.
But can impact drivers compress threads and suchlike in engine cases and so on? As I understand it, an impact driver is designed to turn a hammer blow into rotary movement - and in doing do momentarily compress threads to break the "lock". But can't this also cause more permanent damage to a thread/bolt?
It shouldn't do Danny...One of the ways to try and get a thread moving by 'conventional' means is to give it a couple of sharp blows with a screw driver and hammer...but for that you should have screw drivers where the steel shank extends all the way through the handle!
With my background I have the Engineers 'tool fetish'...I love buying tools and if I came into some money it's one of the things I would spend a lot more on.
You shouldn't look at tools as an 'extra' or something that is optional...they are an investment in the quality of your work and an essential part of doing a nice job.
Good quality tools make the job easier, raise your satisfaction because you know you have done the job correctly and reduce the tendency to bugger things up by improvising with the wrong equipment...once you have them you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner!....Ian
Ian, I'm with you on that. For my Triumphs, I've got pretty much all the special tools and get a buzz of satisfaction when I can pop off the clutch hub in about half a minute instead of a couple of hours, or can torque the inner head bolts without removing the rocker boxes.
I made a valve spring compressor for my M20. It's a really amateur tool welded from bits of whatnot, but it works. Nice feeling.
I bought a little Whitworth box of sockets driven by an Allen wrench that now sits in the M20 toolbox. Found it an a boot sale for £1. Useful.
I marvel all the time at how cheap tools are. Even quality tools are, to my mind, generally cheap.
It's just screwdrivers that I have a problem with. I always seem to end up with odds and ends rather than a decent set with a range of blades. So I bought an impact driver today to help re-balance things - and then I wondered what the downside was. Thanks for the insight.
Impact drivers work well on pozidrive screws and it's a long time since I have had a bike with those. My 'modern' (the Commando) has long since gained coppa-slipped stainless socket screws and 16H screws always seem to come out oily.
I don't feel the need for an impact driver anymore but if I had a 1970s Honda then I probably would.
I consider myself to be something of a tool-junkie as well. I can spend half an hour just weighing up spanners and hammers in my hand before I commit to buy. My favourite screwdrivers are Wera but they do have a slightly thick tip in some sizes.
Good one Danny, there are a lot of good quality 'old' tools still in circulation that can be had for sensible money...I have picked up stuff at car boot sales and jumbles on more than one occasion.
I have a drawful of 'specials' that I have made up either to make the job easier or because originals are no longer available..for years I struggled with the standard spring compressor for the single spring clutch. Then one Christmas I had to do two clutch jobs. After numerous attempts to correctly re engage the clutch spring nut I blew a gasket..so I sat down and looked at the problem, made a tool to my own design...and now it's no longer a job I look forward to with trepidation!...Ian
Hi Rik..A lot of the problem with earlier Japanese posidrive screws..apart from the plasticine they used to make them, was the included angle of the heads. Ours were 55 degrees (or 50 I can't remember) and those sneaky Japs made theirs 60 degrees..so the British screwdrivewrs tended to slip out of place and cock up the screws...and they put the gearchange on the wrong side...you just can't trust 'em.. ...Ian
Quality Tools are a blessing. I import from Abingdon King Dick all their Whitworth sizes and resell them here in the states.
Whitworth thread for is 55 degrees (included angle).
BSCY and CEI are 60 degree thread (included angle)
Unified is also 60 degrees. I have thread charts on my web site www.britishtool.com you are free to download.
I have never had any problem using a quality impact tool, and at times use my neighbors air driven tool. The fasteners come out in good shape, with no damage to casings or whatever.
I do helicoil casings if I see the fasteners are a loose fit. I'm keeping my bike all with the correct threads.
At the moment, I'm helicoiling all the 5/16 BSCY bosses in my frame from a kit I import from UK.
All the times these things have been apart, and the miles covered, makes fine threads very tired indeed.
Cheers,
Robb
PS: I'm running a batch of clutch nut tools and headstock bearing race removes at the moment. I don't know how much they will be, but I don't make a house payment per tool sold.... Rather swap for something anyway.
You dont need a impact driver. I use a solid round bar same size as screw head placed against offending screw then a couple of sharp taps with me hammer, This has the same effect as a impact driver also helps reform the screw slot making it easier to undo with a good fitting screwdriver.Have used this method on all type of screws even the soft posi type on jap stuff.
I used an exellent vintage typr impact driver at Maurice Seddon's. It had a long handle sticking out of the side, instead of the usual clumsy barrel shape.
One tap on any stubborn screw and it was undone
I was like "they dont make them like they used to"
i have a set of screwdrivers that have a hexagon up by the handle either 10mm or 8mm depending on the size when i have to undo or tighten a screw it is easy using a spanner as a lever
My impact screw driver has got me out of trouble a few times, so its worth keeping one. Best technique, I think, is to turn the inpact driver quiet firmly against the screw head and push it firmly into the screw as you hit it. A few firm hits are better than many light ones, so long as you dont damage the job.