Hi, am looking at two miller light switches for my flea , the first is the one that came with the bike, but is cracked in half , and possibly not repairable,Major crack runs through electrical contacts,and reads as follows,CH,H,T,P, The second is a repro on fly bay and reads, DIM, OFF, FULL, looked in parts books, but nothing shows the detail on light switches, by the the way any one know of a source of james ML wd parts book late contract,pref,or any,Rob do you sell these,? andrew.h.

email (option): warbikes@gmail.com

Hi Andrew, from memory (so could easily be wrong) I think you may need a 72M/125 switch marked OFF,H,T,D.
I think Malcolm Leech had one at the last jumble I saw him at.
Cheers, Mick.

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk

Andy, here is the Flea switch that Steve Madden gave me ('cos he loves me) It's marked CH H T P. It's the same Miller switch as fitted to the WD Velo's except of course it has the direct lighting resistance coil fitted to it. Possibly it's quite unique to the Flea.
The James ML also seems to have a unique switch. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Just for reference, here is the James ML switch. Like the Flea the positions are mixed up from the normal and also has the direct lighting resistance coil. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hey Ron, isn't th CH position the "charge" position, when used with the old three brush dynamo?
Cheers, Mick.

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk

Indeed you are correct Mick. I guess they just adapted that same switch for the Flea. See the comprehensive details of the switch in this scan from a Flea manual. They mention the CH position (highlighted). Also on this page you can see the unique Miller fag end lamp. I think I'm correct to say that the only other bike to have this lamp was the Velo MAF. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Interesting Ron, when I was (and still am) collecting parts for my Miller electrics G3L, Steve M said they used the same switch as the flea. The info in my first reply came from my G3L parts list and workshop manual.
That lamp is also used on my G3L (31WD I think).
Any chance you have one? I had to make my own.
I too have had to use the switch top with the CH position, as the correct on is proving rather elusive!
Cheers, Mick.

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk

Mick I forgot about the batch of G3L's with Miller electrics. I managed to find an original rear lamp lens and rim, and with drawings from an original I got the body machined. I used a modified Lucas mounting bracket. Can you explain what you mean about the CH not being correct for the G3L. It seems to have served for the others. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hey Ron, I don't think the CH type switch is wrong, I think they are probably all the same. But according to the manual the switch top should be marked thus-

Its a top with these markings which is being elusive!
Here's a pic of my take on a Miller lamp.It will do
until a proper on turns up.

Cheers, Mick.

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk

Mick I'm not sure I'd read to much into that script. I'm sure position 'D' should read 'P'. Need a bit more research I think. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

If I'll find my N.O.S. Miller switch I'll post a picture of it.

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbike.net

email (option): welbike@welbike.net

I also managed to find a nice NOS switch like that for my Velo. It came with a lovely brass bezel. I presume they just added a resistor to that switch for the Flea aplication. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

email (option): welbike@welbike.net

You could be right Lex. Mine came in a WD box but of course I have no way of knowing if it was the original switch for the box. But the switch is correct and I'm sure the bezel is removable, so it is easy to alter. But in the mean time, I'll pretend that mine is an officers bike that came with the highly sexy brass bits. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Lex, the part number on the box is certaily correct for the G3L, I'm wondering if the information regarding switch positions in the manual never actually made it to the switch. The tops are easily interchanged though.
I do know the G3L never had the bezel, which again, is easy to leave out. Perhaps Steve could enlighten us at some point.
Cheers, Mick.

email (option): mick@motorbikemike.org.uk