Hi folks.
I think I am going to be bothering you all quite a bit over the next few months as this heap of parts gets mauled into some sort of 2 wheeled conveyance. Sorry in advance for any overt displays of ignorance or blatant stupidity!
One M20 rigid rear end and teles front. Supposed to be 1952 but no guarantees as to what all the bits are really from.
I was attacking the rear wheel last night and problems are appearing already.
The spindle has a pretty knackered thread and has been knurled to stop the taper roller bearings flapping about. Has anyone got a decent one they would be willing to part with or know who might have one left in stock? Can’t find it in Russell’s list. Or does anyone know of a way of reclaiming this specimen??
Then there is the brake drum sprocket which has had a new set of dentures welded onto it. This has 8 bolts holding it to the hub (although should they be rivets?) which looks like 66-6259 according to DraganFly wheel type 10 but again I can’t find this in anyone’s product listings on-line..anyone help??
Hi Pete...These bits are from the post war rigid M Series rear wheel. This type did not have the (so called) quickly detachable set up of the military M20.
The sprocket was originally riveted in place, making sprocket/drum replacement a problem. Your wheel has had this done at some point and I guess the sprocket/drum was removed to carry out the work.
The rear spindle should really be consigned to the scrap box. This type have a tendency to break at the shoulder where the fixed bearing sits so really want to be in tip top condition to reduce the chances of this happening.
These wheels were fitted from 48-53 on the rigid/tele models but are relatively hard to find parts for. If you are not too concerned about originality I would consider replacement with the WD type...these fit the frame without modification. The bearings, cam, brake plate and shoes are the same and the rest can still be found, some from the regular M20 suppliers.
I MIGHT have a rear wheel spindle but you will have to mail me the dimensions...there are other similar, but different ones.
The bolts in the hub shouldn't be a problem as long as they are of good quality and a good fit....Ian
Hi Ian
Thanks, that sort of confirms what I was begining to conclude, these bits are not common.
I have had a look at Russells list and IF they have everything I should be able to convert mine to WD type but not cheaply! Y
ou (or anyone else out there) wouldn't happen to have a spare hub with appropriate bits, or complete wheel or whatever looking for a new home by any chance (before I raid my poor daughter's Xmas fund)
Just realised I haven't taken a good look at the front wheel yet!!! bugger!
Hi Peter, If you have the 7" front wheel (with the steel brake plate) that is a lot easier and a lot more common as it was fitted to numerous models..it is the back one that is the problem.
Not sure what bits I currently have as I keep selling them..also I will need to check on the condition of anything I do have...I might be able to help with a hub and used brake drum but not a complete wheel...Ian
Hi Ian
Drum and hub would be a great start. If you could let me know I'd be most grateful.
I think the front end is not bad, I did check the bearing etc a year or so ago and I don't remember going faint and clutching my wallet.
Now the forks are another matter. Anyone got tips for unscrewing the bloody oil seal holders, I've already wrecked my oil filter removal tool on these and that silly special tool won't locate into the slots.
Cheers
Pete
If you've tried the Boa Constictor method, another method is to use multiple jubilee clips on the seal holder and then try to turn it whilst it is clamped in the vice, using the spindle though its hole as a tommy bar, heat may help if you are repainting the fork bottoms anyway
If you wrap a piece of thick leather round the base of the seal holder where it is strongest you can then use a large pair of Stillsons without damaging the holders...but take care....Ian
I'm afraid the world is rapidly running out of wm20 rear wheels complete. It's taken 2 years for us down here in Oz to find one.I think i'd stick to postwar type if i were you. The war model spares go for idiotic prices 600 bucks for wheels, a Thousand for girders!!!
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll try a few out over the weekend.
Ian, please don't go hunting for a hub just yet, a mate here thinks he may have a suitable wheel in his barn, I'm off for a butchers this evening.
Cheers
Pete
Stillsons worked a treat with a bit of heating. Thanks!
I have found a WD type wheel. Amazing what a Panter freak in deepest Bavaria has lying around in the barn. Thanks for he offer of help but I think I've solved this particular problem for today...but "I will be back".