Does anybody know where I can get 66-8358 which is the cap that goes on the top of the oil filter? Draganfly list as having no stock.
Incidentally, I have a rear mudguard (unvalanced type) without the tail piece and in poor condition spare. It is cracked where a pillion seat was mounted, but could be salvaged with some careful mig welding or brazing. Happy to take £20 for this but am really not keen to post. It's located about 4 miles south of Cambridge. Drop me an email if interested. Mike

email (option): paduanomike58@gmail.com

Hi Mike,

There has been a discussion about that cap a while ago on this forum. It seems that many, including me, don't use an oil filter at all in the oil tank. I do have a pretty big/strong magnet in the oil tank to collect all metal parts and change the oil quite frequently.

I do have a filter and cap but not in tank.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Hi Henk
Seems strange not to use a filter, but I will go with a strong magnet for the time being. When I found the bike and started working on it there was no filter and I didn't think about it at the time. I only realised there was an issue when I ordered up a filter and realised it would be useless without some sort of cap. Suppose I could turn one out of suitable diameter stock and use some sort of conical spring to hold it in place. Cheers. Mike

That filter with the cap as it is used isn't very effective and it makes it also hard to see the oil level in the tank. I have done many thousands of miles with my BSA and never had a problem.

I can send you a photo of such a cap if you want.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

I ended up making my pwn. Given it is not seen it doesn't have to look pretty (thankfully for me). I used some copper sheet I had in, an offcut of 15mm copper pipe and a spring I also had lying around. An hour with the tin snips and soldering iron and it was done.

Running from the beginning with a rebuilt engine (clean internally) I have, like Henk, done many thousands of miles without the filter assembly...

I change the oil every 2,000 miles and have never suffered any reliability issues...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Me too. several thousand miles and no filter. I change the oil at around 1000 miles or so. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks for replies about the filter. I think after initial start up I will change the oil fairly promptly and then stick to a change every 1 to 2 thousand miles or so. A quick look at the magnet will alert me to any issues with steel parts, and I am a fan of frequent oil changes in my other vehicles so nothing new!

When i buy a old motorcycle i always get the oil tank of the bike and clean it with Terpentine and a brush to flush is a copple times and put it verry clean and dry back. Then fill it with oil .

If you have Access to a lathe and have a bit of scrap Aluminium around this cost about a quid to make




as others have pointed out, it's probably not recessary to use a filter but I had one and no cap so....

Hello everyone, interesting discussion, I have solved like you with a magnet and with this self-built filter as photos
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156910102@N02/39574962301/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156910102@N02/24707300087/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156910102@N02/39574933251/in/dateposted-public/

email (option): marcoleo1967@gmail.com

As Henk says, with the cap you can not see if the oil circulates, however the magnet attracts any metal parts but not aluminum, so I thought to build a small glass that retains small pieces avoiding that by mistake they fall into the pump oil damaging it!

email (option): marcoleo1967@gmail.com

Hi,

There is a blueprint of the oil filler cap in the tech' section:

http://wdbsa.nl/download/Oil%20filter%20cap.pdf

I do not use it, as I saw few bikes where the felt parts from the filter
Fell into circulation and blocked it. (Maybe it was pattern filters?)
But if VW beetle can be so reliable with an oil filter not much better
Than what the M20 has at the sump, it should be OK for the BSA too...

BTW, you can buy a super strong "earth magnet"
("Rare Earth Neodymium") for less than one USD, delivery included,
And attach it to the inner end of the oil drain plug.
This way you can take it out for inspection when changing oil.


If you want to be sure that there are no metal flakes in the sump,
Or drain the oil if wet sumping, there are also "BSA FINNED ALLOY SUMP PLATE MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG" available.
(Not original, of course... :relaxed: )

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com