Hi folks,
During our recent trip to Normandy, my back brake drum worked its way loose & rotated at speed, jamming the back brake on & smashing a lot of the metalwork on the left side.
One of the things which got bent was the upper chain guard.
I'm struggling to fathom out how it comes off (to straighten/inspect/repair/replace) - does the primary chain case need to come apart as well??
My rear mudguard took a bit of a wallop as well, so that too may need to come off...
All the pannier metalwork AND the carrier got bent too, All for the sake of a %*@$ 10p bolt working itself loose! :-(
Help??
Thanks folks

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

It's surprising how much damage to the bike (and yourself) can happen when a brake anchor lets go. From the factory, the bolt was fitted with a castellated nut and split pin. I use Loctite.

The front of the upper chainguard can be tight to get the front end off the stud on the inner primary case, because it's usually hard up against the mudguard. It might pay to slacken or remove the two saddle clamps that hold the mudguard to the frame, especially if you're thinking of removing the mudguard anyway. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ron,
Thank you kindly for the reply AND the very useful drawing as well (That'll help putting it back together again)

I eventually got the chain guard off... It had been walloped forward when the drum broke free, causing the chain guard to jam firmly between the chain case and engine, making me think it was bolted in somewhere... A couple of gentle taps with a mallet in the right direction freed it & out it came & was subsequently fairly easy to straighten out. (Phew!)

I just need to get the pannier rack, back carrier & the metalwork straightened out. Still not sure about the rear mudguard, it does look a bit wonky but I'm wondering if the stays will straighten that out when re-fitted... Time will tell.

Now, EVERY nut I put back on is getting locktight thread lock liberally applied!

Ian

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

For the rear brake torque arm bolt the correct castellated nut/split pin combo is the better solution IMO...Positively mechanically locked is 100% reliable...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I agree with Ian castellated nut with a split pin

Am I misreading this? Everyone is writing about the brake plate when the original text mentions the brake drum becoming loose. This would point at the three bolts in the hub.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com